Flight Into Pre-history - Andrew Johnson

To nearly fill the theatre in the Centenary Centre for a talk on archaeology might seem a tall order but Andrew Johnson succeeded, holding the attention of the audience throughout with just the traditional refreshment break. All returned to their seats for the second half and that’s the touchstone of a good talk!

Andrew is Field Archaeologist for Manx National Heritage. His illustrated talk concentrated on finds on and adjacent to Ronaldsway Airport. These works were planning-led because of the runway extensions, setting off a whole chain of exciting, significant finds.

Care was taken to set the discoveries in physical context by the use of maps from 1860 onwards and in historical sequence by reference to earlier digs and finds. These did enough to set templates for future work, showing what an incredible area this is for study.

We were shown a 700 year-old lead smelting site for the Cistercian monks of Rushen Abbey, a Viking longhouse c.1000 years old and one of their balances, for weighing small quantities of silver. This is still usable and of such interest that it is ‘on tour’ to other collections. A fine, 98% gold ring was also found.

A 3000 year old stone grave had been discovered together with a fine, inscribed cross. Amusingly, a famous German archaeologist internee was enlisted to assist with one dig but because it was a wartime airfield had to view the dig from a protected area through binoculars. A 4000 years old Neolithic house was found, probably the first discovered in Britain. Oh the crass stupidity of war! Mind you, masses of Stone Age defence and hunting weapons were also found in abundance.

Clay storage pots for keeping food fresh for extended periods by sealing and burying were also displayed. Evidence from 8000 years ago of worked flints with indications of a mixed diet of molluscs, crustacea, eggs, nuts and birds were discovered. It has been calculated that the food source was so abundant that an hour’s hunting/gathering would provide one day’s food. It also sounds a good, organic diet!

Close co-ordination between the contractors, continuing aircraft movements and M.N.H. was critical. Design amendments such as slightly raising the runways rather than scalping down the adjacent land protected many potential finds.

Bronze Age remains have survived on this site because of its alkalinity –bones and shells gradually dissolve in acidic soil. This has left us with the remains of round houses with hearths and sleeping platforms and drains to keep the houses dry. A burial was found of a male, in the foetal position. A careful examination showed that the poor chap had been attacked, with a deep, unhealed cut to a kneecap and ribs cut by a deep, penetrating wound. It is rare to find a surviving Bronze Age skeleton and even rarer to discover a murder victim!

Andrew sets us up for our brief AGM and a talk by the incomparable Jennifer Leece on Wednesday, 16th February, 7.30pm in the Centenary Centre.

Celebrating Manx National Heritage - Edmund Southworth

We counted ourselves very fortunate in having Edmund Southworth, Director of Manx National Heritage, as our November speaker. He began by sketching out his previous experience and specialised interests. This included archaeological work in a number of museums culminating in running all the sites for Lancashire County Council, including two castles. Well, we can match that!

Edmund traced the geological and geomorphic history of the Island from the last ice age, 12 000 years ago, when land started to become inhabitable. Finds from the earliest times show a hierarchical system and a range of buildings and artefacts showing variations in quality of life – larger homes in the best situations, more farming activity and finer possessions. Nothing changes!

The Island is unusually rich in remains. It is curious that the Romans never came here, despite it being visible from the mainland, (no, our speaker did not mention boat fares!) The odd Roman coin has been found on the Island, but how they got here is guesswork.

Christianity arrived early in the Island’s history and survived a whole series of conflicting forces, including the Vikings. These were young men, in their prime, with all the natural passions associated with this age. Most came via Viking centres such as York but others from as far away as Arabia. The indigenous Manx maids were not indifferent to these manly charms and it didn’t take too long to assimilate them. The Christian faith was embraced by many and still continues, affecting all lives with its principles underpinning law, education, hospitals and social provision.

Despite being so close to the UK and formerly joined to it, even major events there such as the Norman invasion in 1066 had little effect here. Of more interest was the Viking line of influence through the Isles – Lewis, Skye, Mull, Islay and Mann.

The Middle Ages saw transference of power with the island being treated as a chattel to be bought and sold. It was seen as more of strategic importance than anything, sitting in the middle of the Irish Sea.

Throughout the evening, each point was illustrated with fascinating slides, many quite fresh to the audience.

From the earliest times, mining has been exceedingly important with metals such as Copper and Lead found in large quantities. More valuable metals such as Silver and Gold can be found but to a lesser extent. All of these workings have left a rich industrial archaeology, as illustrated in the Laxey valley with its world famous water wheel.

Industry led to a transport heritage of dozens of mining and quarrying rail lines. Now, the survivors support the tourist industry that has almost drifted into heritage, itself - bar motor sports, of course.

Internment camps, preserved sites, family history and social events were all melded into a fantastic evening.

December sees the Christmas Party, then Andrew Johnson, MNH – Finds at the Airport, Wednesday, 19th January, 7.30 Centenary Centre. Note the date change!

Our Manx Connections with Lindsay and Bernie Quayle

Our October meeting was billed as ‘Our Manx Connections – Some Thoughts and Pictures with Bernie and Lindsay Quayle.’ This was a mixture of talk and pictures and was very much enjoyed by a goodly crowd, as always.

Lindsay opened the talk with a brief history of her family and its Manx connections through the Crellins of Orrisdale and Robert Quayle of West Hill, Castletown. Many family connections in Peel have recently been unearthed. Perhaps we will learn more about these at a later date.

Bernie then spoke about his family and referred to his paternal grandfather, E.C.Quayle, the artist. He showed a few family photographs and pictures of some of E.C.Quayle’s paintings. He then referred to his father’s great love of photography, giving some examples. The visual arts, as is so often the case, appear to run from one generation to another.

The next topic was Bernie’s work with Manx Radio in the mid-sixties and how that came about. He then went on to describe his life as a DJ in the United States for eleven years and a brief account of his other jobs prior to his return to the Island in 1989. This marked a start to his presentation of the ‘Late Show,’ a post he still holds and enjoys, as do his fans.

Bernie showed a fascinating film, contrasting Manx Radio in its early days to its present, high – tech form. This helped to remind us all of the incredible changes in communication that have occurred over those few years. What will happen over the next period – brain implants!

The break was happily covered by the Friends of the Centenary Centre – a cuppa’ and a chat is so welcome!

Bernie then finished off his talk, giving Lindsay an opportunity of sharing her sponsored trip in November, 2009 along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in Peru. This raised funds for the Isle of Man Children’s Centre. What a wonderful way to support such a worthwhile cause. How superbly energetic!

There was a brief time for questions and thanks before heading home. Another great evening!

Our next event is 7.30pm on Tuesday, 9^th November in the Centenary Centre. This will be a talk by the ‘nearly new!’ Director of Manx National Heritage, Mr Edmund Southworth. As always, everyone is welcome, members or not, so get this date into your diary!

Rocks and Shifting Sands

We opened our packed September meeting by introducing Lorna Spiers, the worthy, eight-year old winner of our newly awarded Les Quilliam Trophy essay prize. The splendid engraved plaque with her name on a brass plate on the polished wood base was on display, beside her.

Les was our first chairman and we thought that an essay prize on Peel’s heritage would be an appropriate memorial to this fine, former schoolmaster and enthusiast for all things Manx. The essay was published in the August Peel City Guardian.

This was followed by another notable event, the presentation of a cheque for a remarkable £10 000 to the trust by Eddie Lowey, MLC, on behalf of the Cockfield Trust. As many will know, we have established a substantial publishing arm and have been seeking ways of encouraging research projects in Peel, its rich environment and history. In particular, we are working to establish closer links with young people, enabling them to appreciate their home and to maintain our work.

Our warm thanks to the Cockfield Trust and to Eddie, son of Peel, for arranging this generous boost to Peel Heritage Trust and its work.

We then moved on to our principle speaker, our former vicar, Canon Brian Kelly.

Brian began by referring to his 50 years of ministry. He mused on the sands of the beach here and the wonderful work of the Beach Mission before drifting into the reflection on a recent walk around the cemetery where he found that he knew more people there than around the town, now! This, in itself, marks part of the shifting sands of life, brief as it is.

Following his first curacy at St Georges, the bishop sent him to Foxdale to “Make his mistakes there.” What Foxdale had done to deserve this, we know not! The only mistake I’m aware of was when he drove his car into a ditch outside our first home, Tynwald View, at the junction of Ballavar and the Lhoobs Roads. A borrowed tractor from Sammy Leece soon put that right, if not his front bumper.

Third posting was to Bolton, in Lancashire, to gain some inner city experience before being urgently recalled because the then bishop was desperate to have a Manx appointment as Manx Nationalism was rife with groups torching houses of incomers and the like. This appointment was to Maughold.

Fifth and final stint was to Peel, and thank heaven for that. Memories included two sessions of BBC Songs of Praise, including one in the old cathedral. The recording took so long that the tide could be observed going in and out!

Shifting Sands of new bibles (4 million copies of the New English Bible sold in just the 1^st year), services, appointments, attitudes and ceremony all led us to the central Rock – Jesus and His church. This is the Rock on which we can stand firm.

Next meeting – Tuesday, 12^th October, 7.30pm - Methodist Chapel, Mr Bernie and Mrs Lindsay Quayle.

Walk at Lynague 19.6.10 & Secret Gardens 10/11.10

Having been away on holiday, this is a bonus edition with two for the price of one!

At the kind invitation of the Rev Ian Faulds and his wife, Claire, members of Peel Heritage Trust were joined by members of Michael Heritage Trust to enjoy a conducted walk down the cliffs and through the wonderful sea caves. This had to be very carefully timed to take advantage of the tides.

The weather was glorious and more than forty members negotiated the tricky path and the succession of caves with their stunning views. Many were the photographs and new friendships as the two groups mingled.

The socialising continued with the Faulds generously entertaining the group to refreshments in their front garden and invited members to have a look around their beautiful home. Ian and Claire, thank you so much for your generosity and in sharing your enthusiasm for such a wonderful part of the Island with us.

The week-end of the 10^th/11^th July saw the latest in a wonderful long line of Peel’s Secret Gardens. Once again, crowds flooded in. Gardens were spread from the edge of town on the Ramsey Road to the quayside. Everywhere you looked, people were consulting the map in the centre spread of the souvenir guide, seeking directions from each other and following up recommendations to visit particular favourites.

Eleven of the twenty-one gardens were new to us, some brand new. This blend of old favourites with well-established planting, gardens a few months old, sweeping banks of planting and glittering jewels of small courtyards make this event so special.

This event is non-competitive and was founded and continues as a biennial event to share some of the mysteries that make up this stunning, ancient city.

As in the Lynague walk, a very important element is the friendship that develops between garden owners and the crowds who visit. Counts failed this year because of the numbers but all the brochures were sold, the plant stall in the Market Place was emptied and many came for both days.

As for two years’ time, I’ve already got a list of people keen to include their gardens.

Thank you gardeners and all those who took part. Joy unbounded!

Our next event is on Wednesday, 8^th September, 7.30pm in the Centenary Centre. The much-loved, long-serving former vicar, Canon Brian Kelly will be talking to us. Do come in good time.

From Steam to Hot Air - Geoff Corkish MBE, MHK

Geoff opened his fascinating talk from when he joined the Steam Packet, straight from school, in 1969, in the parcels department. He remembered the winter cold in the unheated building and the poor lighting, absence of any aids such as computers or calculators.

Dougie Cowley, all 25 stone of him, was his boss so that alone put an end to any disputes! When inquiring as to when he might take a holiday, he was told to wait until informed. This turned out to be the end of October and the start of November.

Deliveries were by the 3-wheeled scarab tractor units and trailers, immensely popular at railway stations, as they were so easy to manoeuvre.

The bulk of cargo traffic was to and from Liverpool – no Heysham Harbour, then. Calves were wrapped in sacking with their heads sticking out. Coffins were loaded into a large box on the deck before the live passengers arrived and used it for seating. I recall a group of bikers being asked by a rather intense lady to desist playing cards on it as her husband hated cards and he was under the pack!

Telex was the means whereby information about the actual sailing time, number of passengers and cargo was communicated.

Drugs for chemists were sent in tea chests with no special security needed in those happier days. Now sniffer dogs have to be used to check passengers and freight. Why were our precious standards abandoned so lightly?

In the season, boats were packed with trippers, the Wakes Weeks being particularly popular. Porters raced with handcarts between the boats and hotels, (we have a restored one in the Manx Transport Museum, in Peel.) Many of the men got little further than the now-demolished Yates’s Wine Lodge!

Manxman, King Orry, Ben-my-Chree, Lady of Mann, Tynwald tripped off the tongue. We all loved these lovely, dignified vessels with their evocative smells of steam, kippers, polish and Brasso. One could go on. I used to love watching the log spinning in the water with the flickering needle showing our speed. No doubt, all electronic, now.

The restaurants with silver service have never been replaced. What a pity. Courtesy was such that a sailing could be delayed for a few moments whilst some soul threw family and luggage on-board before leaping on as the last rope splashed into the sea. Oh Mr Health and Safety, what now?

Even peoples’ ashes were scattered at sea by the captain. The details of this were amusing.

The illustrious service in two world wars was covered, as was the development of car ferries and fast craft. As for the hot air, well that’s Tynwald!

Next, 19^th June – be at Lynague, 10.15 for 10.30am. Share cars where possible and use special car park for Rev Ian Fauld’s conducted tour. Cancel, if wet as path tricky, so walking shoes, please. Timing is to suit the tides for cave exploration – terrific place!

Old Ramsey Town

Norrie Radcliffe excelled in his illustrated presentation on old Ramsey.

We began with the retreating ice sheets that left the island a very different place to before. Melt water coursing down bringing masses of rocks and silt changed the landscape. It might have been 20 000 years ago but the effects of 600 feet of ice sitting on us is still clearly visible.

Ramsey is situated in a very watery setting with the sea on one hand and the Sulby River on the other. Early pictures showed how man fought back to maintain a foothold. Fishermen were ordered, in the 16th c., to bring in loads of stone, once a year, to help build up the town’s defences and yes, flooding still occurs and we still have to be watchful.

Ramsey soon became the second largest settlement to Douglas and thrived. The first slide of 1790 showed this and the rich harvest of the sea when the bay was full of fish was compared to the over-exploited seas of today.

Bit by bit, street by street we saw the town grow. Simple fishermen’s cottages, larger elegant houses in Georgian times for captains and merchants with another surge of building of substantial, richly decorated Victorian houses for the well-to–do and visitors, enriched the town in its fine setting.

This glorious range of buildings were set off by fine churches, chapels, picture houses, schools a town hall and court house. Who could have predicted that so much of this, particularly in South Ramsey, would be destroyed, not by earthquake or enemy action but by its own citizens? Norrie returned to this extraordinary, wilful destruction in the 1950’s, time and again. Originally a Peel man, he returned to the same theme as Eddie Lowey, last month, namely, Peel - be ever watchful and alert! You are one of the last bastions of this heritage. Continue to fight to protect it. Very powerful forces in the most unexpected places are keen to destroy it under their own distorted banner of ‘progress’.

We marvelled at the modesty of the ladies in their bathing machines. What a contrast to today!

Not many of us knew that one of the driving forces for shipbuilding was the lack of wood tax on the Island. This enabled ships to be built here much more cheaply. This was comparable, I suppose, to today’s tax breaks for film-making. Even iron- hulled ships such as the Euterpe, re-named the Star of India, were Ramsey built. She’s still sailing, of course, in Santiago. Four hundred men were working in the shipyard at that time.

Rope walks, soup kitchens, 1890 Big Snow, railways, cattle yards, schools, the new catholic church by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, paddle steamers, fire engines, the soon to be sunk Ellan Vannin entering her home port all flashed by in rapid succession – phew, what a treat!

Next meeting, Wednesday, 5th May, 7.30pm, Centenary Centre, Geoff Corkish MBE, MHK, ‘From Steam to Hot Air’ – unmissable!