‘One of Our Badgers is Missing’ Katie King, by John Slater

Captivating Katie had me captivated. She said that her parents had never heard this talk and that they would be in the audience. This fazed her not one jot and I was delighted to find that her father was a pupil in Ballakermeen when I was teaching there, shortly after the dawn of time!

Katie’s presentation was based upon Manx National Heritage’s archives featuring some of the more unusual Victorian and Edwardian tourist tales. This she did with charm, vivacity and piquancy. More of the latter later!

We were soon in a world where tourism transformed the Island from a quiet farming and fishing community to one of the liveliest places in the world. Some of the quotations used to attract visitors included, “There seemed to be a gentleness about it that made one feel as if one was in Paradise.” This still can be the case, thank goodness!

The climate was described as, “exceedingly salubrious. When Governor Loch took up his post, aged just 38 in 1863 he couldn’t believe that the Island wasn’t exploiting lovely beaches, scenery and sea bathing, made popular by Queen Victoria. Loch arranged for Port Skillion to be the first official bathing creek. Douglas Corporation insisted that this would be for men only and women had to swim at Port Jack!

The only access for passengers was by Steam Packet. The crossing in the early days could be anything from 12 – 24 hours. The worst was six days! Loch insisted on improved steamers and piers.  Even so, some crossings must have been a little lively as one writer records, “There was scarcely a person in the whole of steerage who was not ‘departing’ over the side.” By 1860, crossings were down to 6 hours with the record of about 2 ½ hours!

The government got a grip of this new tourist industry following the creation of ‘holidays’ for working people. The advertisements were very attractive, by top artists. Combined rail and sail tickets cost just 1p more than the rail fare! Just as many cross channel companies do now, fares are cheap but the on-board spend of thousands of passengers ensure profitability. Any chance of this happening again!

From 1870 onwards, posters featuring beautiful girls lured young men over in droves. This in turn fired up thousands of girls who were looking for freedom from their normally restrained lives with the prospect of a love for life. Not surprisingly, a large local industry of ladies who dispensed favours for a price, developed! Public houses and dance halls flourished.

Loch had slums cleared with housing on the edge of Douglas for those displaced and had fine hotels built. He also fired up the transport system, introducing the steam trains and electric trams we enjoy today. The horse trams took care of the ‘missing link’ from the station along the prom to Derby Castle. The whole island was transformed in both appearance and prosperity.

Pleasure gardens and the glens were developed. Glen Helen had a zoo, including the legendary badger named in the title of the talk. The police dealt with this poor animal when it escaped, by shooting it! Apparently they also gunned down a monkey from elsewhere. Our wallabies had better watch out for blue, flashing lights!

I can’t do justice to this sparkling talk in an article. We’ll get Katie back!

Saturday the 12^th and Sunday the 13^th July are Peel’s Secret Gardens from 1.00 – 5.00pm. Adult admission is by the glorious programme with original art works at just £2. Accompanied children are free. Programmes are available in Peel News Centre, Mitchell’s Newsagents, in the Market Square on open days, Greeba Plant Centre, Jurby Water Gardens, Felton’s Ironmongers, Ramsey, Kirk Michael Post Office, Shamyr Hey Tea Room, Peel, Ward Library Peel, Fairfield on Tynwald Day, The Welcome Centre in Douglas. Open gardens will also have a supply.

This bi-ennial event is a highlight. There are 16 gardens to enjoy, all clearly marked and a map in the brochure. 

Three Legs of Knockaloe, A Farming Dynasty - Pat Newton, 21.5.14, by John Slater

To mark Peel Heritage Trust’s 25^th year, we began the meeting with a celebratory draw. All paid up members were entered without charge and there was a numbered ticket for each. The first drawn out of the hat received £25.00 and there were four additional prizes of pairs of tickets for  ‘The Green Fields of France’ on the 8^th or 9^th August. Doubtless, we’ll have further celebrations but this surprise event got us off to a jolly good start.

‘The Green Fields of France’ is the brainchild of Bill Quine. It is a moving presentation centred on the First World War with appropriate music, costume and drama to mark this awful event. Tickets are now on sale at the usual outlets for the Peel Centenary Centre. Given the role that Knockaloe played in the wars, housing thousands of aliens, there is a powerful link with the subject of our speaker’s presentation.

Pat’s meticulously researched and prepared Powerpoint presentation about the farms Knockaloe Mooar and Knockaloe Beg, in separate treens but within the same succession of families had us in a spin! My pen all but caught fire, closely followed by my brain as person after person, success after success and tragedy after tragedy followed in rapid succession. Other farms on the island as well as in Cumbria were interwoven in a complex tapestry.

This remarkable history of the development of the farms, families involved and the agricultural advances made, often on an inadequate budget, cries out for a book.

The story seemed to begin in 1651 with the Radcliffe family. In no time, progress was hindered by disputed wills. This seems to have been a recurring theme - something we’re often reminded about by solicitors advertising on Manx Radio!

It was about 1751 when Bishop Wilson leaped onto the scene. He wanted financial help to build Patrick church. One of the Radcliffe family became vicar and then Vicar General. In 1787 the last of the Radcliffes died.

Parrs of Peel brewery suddenly became involved in 1792. To general distress, the whole brewery was washed out to sea in a storm. Once again, we’re reminded that extreme weather is not unusual.

Other farms and families came onto the scene by one way or another – Quirks of Ballavarghar (Ballavar), Chadwicks, Christians of Scarlett, the Taubman’s of the Nunnery estate which included Nunnery Howe, Wallberry and Upper Howe, all regarded as ‘model’ farms because of their updated form of agricultural management.

Knockaloe had grown to a sufficient acreage to justify its own steam - threshing mill. These were eventually rendered obsolete by mobile, steam threshing teams going from farm to farm. The old chimney survives.

As fortunes changed, properties had to be sold off. Interestingly, Pat has just been contacted by a Quirk from New South Wales, a possible relative of the late Barton  Quirk and others already mentioned.

In the mid 19^th c. Corrin appears to run the farm. He was principally a net manufacturer with fishing boats. He is, I think, remembered by Corrin’s Tower.

In 1903, Army Volunteers arrived for training. Who, at that time, would have envisaged the Hell of carnage of two world wars and the part this land would play in housing aliens on both occasions.

Somehow, the imaginative and experimental approach to farming has lived on, despite all the trials and tribulations. Even horse and other agricultural shows have survived family dramas and world crises!

Our next meeting is on Wednesday, 18^th June at 7.30pm in the Centenary Centre. It has the intriguing title, ‘One of Our Badgers is Missing’. Katie King of MNH will explore this and other stories from the heyday of Manx Tourism.

Viking Women in the Isle of Man, Dr Fenella Bazin, 16.4.14, by John Slater

Can any evening be that good? Well, this one was! For a long while we’ve struggled with various combinations of computers, projectors, sound and lighting. The technical staff at the Centenary Centre has been very supportive but at times, other commitments have prevented them from helping. They’ve kindly offered to train up some of our members. To my delight, three excellent members volunteered. Our thanks to all concerned plus a big sigh of relief!

I also asked for a volunteer for a new editor for our newsletter. Once again, a splendid volunteer appeared without hesitation. Two wonderful events in one evening! Not satisfied with this, a third followed. An exceedingly good presentation by Dr Fenella Bazin on the role of Viking Women in the Isle of Man made us why we’ve waited sixteen years since her last visit. This was in the old banqueting hall of the Creg Malin. That jogged some memories!

My light-hearted introduction asked if it was true that Viking warriors bowed before their wives so that they could wind wool on the horns of their helmets! This tied in with Sam’s poster depicting the Pagan Lady’s necklace, discovered in the 1982 Peel Castle Dig, hanging on the horns of a helmet. Interestingly, Fenella was wearing a copy of this necklace, (she said it was only a copy!)

Fenella said that her interest in the Vikings was prompted by a poster of Norway on her bedroom wall. The 1982 Peel 3-week teaching dig in Peel cathedral with its spectacular finds of a Viking silver hoard and the foundations of a palace sealed her future.

When a stone lid was raised from a grave, a woman’s skeleton was found with a number of exciting artefacts. The British Museum sent a conservator the next day to empty what became known as the Pagan Lady’s tomb. Lots of domestic items included a roasting spit and shears. The most famous item is her necklace. Some of the glass beads were identified as using re-cycled Roman glass. Around the lady’s waist was a knife in a case and a comb.

Who was this lady – a Viking or a Celt? She was wearing Celtic dress, buried in a Christian cemetery with Viking grave goods.

Viking husbands clearly thought very highly of their wives. If they pre-deceased them, elaborate crosses might be erected in their memory. Some have shown a woman riding a horse side-saddle, some with hunting scenes, a goat, a boar and even a family cat. A good mouser was highly prized, as today!

The wife’s responsibilities were massive, especially with a husband away on hunting, fishing or battle trips. Many were left widowed and had to know how to manage a household of up to seventy people, including extended members, servants and slaves. They all had to be fed and clothed, of course. The latter was all hands to the primitive looms and other fabric tasks. It was too slow and laborious to meet the family’s needs so even the warriors would lend a hand when home!

Women were encouraged to be thinking and decisive. Much of the decision- making was laid upon their shoulders. If there was no son, the eldest daughter would inherit. Although her first husband was chosen for her, if she was widowed, she could choose subsequent ones.

All women had to be knowledgeable of Viking history and the gods so that this could be passed to subsequent generations. Viking women were a force to be reckoned with!

The very large audience kept Fenella plied with questions after the interval so that it was hard to close the meeting. We can’t wait another sixteen years!

Next meeting, 7.30 pm Wednesday 21^st May, in the Centenary Centre when Pat Newton will be presenting, ‘Three Legs of  Knockaloe, a Farming Dynasty.’

Traditional Buildings of Man…Andrew Johnson MNH

I know that Andy Johnson, of Manx National Heritage, is an incredibly popular speaker and that traditional Manx buildings are very much in the hearts of our members but to watch over eighty flood into the Centenary Centre theatre was a joy. If only our political masters, local and national cared as much!

Andy began by reminding us that virtually none of our old buildings are protected. He requested members and friends to feed in information and local history of Peel and its buildings into the ‘Traditional Buildings of Man Project’ at  www.tbm.im

The illustrations on screen were very emotive.  Under ‘Buildings Already Lost’ was Ronaldsway Farm, the home of Illiam Dhone. This prompted many others to be named from the audience.

‘Buildings Already Going’ included many thatched buildings, a particular interest of Andy’s.

We then saw Awyn Beg, Surby, with its complex development interest using simple materials such as thatch, elevated roof, later asbestos tiles, render and then the two dwellings combined into one. The building is still in place but much changed. The audience was very interested in the ways that a building’s history can be’ read’ with a little practice.

Knock Rushen, a gentrified quarterland farmhouse, including its outbuildings was much admired. We noticed the developments over time from the 18thC. Onwards.

Cummal Beg, Smeale showed early pictures of a simple, single storied cottage developing with an extra storey and various extensions making use of bricks from local brickworks, now gone.

There was much interest in a wicker chimney flue in Bride. These were covered with wattle and daub, making them fire resistant. There are several surviving examples. They were cheap to build and popular when stone was in short supply. Available materials included beach pebbles, turves, mud, thatch, cob and corrugated iron. The latter has been around long enough to be thought of as ‘traditional’!

‘Unsuspected Significance’. The 15^th C. Friary, Ballabeg, is a good example. What, at first seems to be a barn, is seen to be of massive, national, historic significance. This former Franciscan Chapel has survived by the skin of its teeth. What now for this building, illustrating, as it does, such an important part of the Island’s development?

Next up was Ballapaddag with its complex extensions and excellent, internal woodwork. Then, to Ballavargher with its slate-hung façade and a fine range of outbuildings. Craig, Andreas illustrated developmental growth between the 18^th – 20^th centuries. It was the home of father and son MHKs Robert and Robert Sayle Corlett.

‘Industrial Architecture’. This includes a whole range of activities – mills, mines, railways, weaving sheds, net and sail lofts. All too late, the value of these structures are being appreciated for their intrinsic qualities and record of our history and development. Smeale’s smithy has been lost but that at St Marks is to be protected.

We looked at fishermens’ cottages at Port St Mary, Poyll Vaish (Pool of death!), Garwick, Port Mooar all enjoying good access to the sea. Examples of weavers’ sheds were seen at Surby and Ballafesson. One has only to half- close one’s eyes to see them as hives of activity. What a joy it is to visit places where weaving has been re-introduced to good effect.

Andy reminded us of the MNH National Monuments Record. He said that it contained c. 5 000 archaeological records and a goodly number of industrial sites but had very few buildings on record. If you can help with this work, please contact MNH.

The audience sprang to life when ‘Traditional Buildings of Peel’ hit the screen. We saw very early 18^th c buildings at 27 – 29 Douglas Street, now gone and Callister’s House, the oldest in Peel, once in Douglas Street, smashed down in 1949.

Orry Lane is of great interest. Formerly known as Custom House Lane, it extended across to Gawne’s Court. This yard was behind a coaching inn owned by the Gawnes of Kentraugh and then became the School of Navigation.

Castle Street with its fine 18^th c. merchants’ houses is still of great interest. Deemsters and other wealthy people lived there, all profiting, no doubt, from the ‘running trade’ as smuggling was referred to!

Strand Street, Bridge Street, Factory Lane were all admired, including their once-common cowsheds. This was pre- readily obtainable milk from dairies.

Warehouses and the huge salt house, demolished in 1952 were examined with great interest before we moved on to public buildings with ‘classical pretensions’ such as chapels and courthouses. Hotels, villas and Victorian terraces all invited closer inspection.

The discussion after refreshments was led by expressions of anger at the mindless loss of so many important buildings in our story. The Majestic Hotel, Onchan, Baillie Scott’s first large work and of international importance, recently flattened for modern apartments. Even his own home, designed and built for himself and family, The Red House, is suffering structural alterations internally and externally. The member who raised this asked what was the point of registering buildings of this quality to see the ‘protection’ so readily tossed aside to the nation’s loss.

This meeting was hailed as a masterly presentation and was inspirational. Would that any of rulers were listening!

Our next meeting is on Wednesday, 16^th April at 7.30pmin the Centenary Centre, when Dr Fenella Bazin speaks on Viking Women in the Isle of Man.

25th A.G.M.

25th A.G.M. …..19.2.14…..John Slater

The 25th AGM of the trust will be unforgettable in so many ways! To be celebrating a quarter of a century together was remarkable in itself. To help mark the occasion, Dr Patricia Tutt opened the evening with a power point presentation of her remarkable new book, An Introduction to the Architecture of the Isle of Man. Colour photographs of both interiors and exteriors of a whole range of Manx buildings plus impressively researched text is an absolute ‘must have’. It skilfully meets the needs of an academic, the interested enthusiast as well as gracing any coffee table. Available in bookshops now!

Not for the first time, we were treated to a technological battle royal between computer, projector and anxious speaker. Luckily, I had plenty of material for the large audience, particularly an overview of the new programme. We owe a great debt to all our speakers over so many wonderful years. Our grateful thanks to them all!

With the help of Mike O’Neill, the Centenary Centre’s resident genius, the screen was filled with an absorbing procession of fine buildings, gardens and grounds. Many are only glimpsed through trees or seen briefly from the air. If only the public might have the opportunity of enjoying them from time to time. Houses such as Milntown and the Grove are so enjoyed.  Pat’s book helps to show us what we are missing, particularly when you see the quality of some of the interiors.

We began with Balladoole, Arbory. This gorgeous house had been gifted to the family by Lady Derby, along with the Calf of Man. That’s what I call a gift! A granary, dated 1800 had been used as a school at one time. Then on to Scarlett House with an interesting outbuilding dated 1717 graced with built in hens’ nest boxes. We saw a flax  retting pond close to the house. Flax was once an important Manx crop.

Kirby at Braddan showed the marked separation of ‘upstairs, downstairs.’ The servants’ approach lane is sunken between banks so that the family and guests are spared looking at them! 

Next on our tour was Kentraugh, Rushen. We admired the interiors with wonderful plasterwork and a magnificent music room with a vaulted, gothic ceiling. Milntown can easily be visited so do take that opportunity. Next, to Crogga, my own favourite setting. Lovely woodland and bluebells enhanced by not just one but two steam railways, one private, a lake and boating as well. Heaven!

Apparently, Braddan has suffered over time so straight on to Glen Mooar at St Johns c. 1820. The hall and corridor has superb Minton tiles normally protected by a carpet but illustrated in the book.

Government House, Onchan, the Nunnery, 1823 and Lorne House, Castletown were all admired when came the second unforgettable event. A member of the audience rose to their feet, tripped on the stepped aisle, fell, was partially caught and then lay silent on the floor. Two of our medical members tended to them, we dialled 999, a paramedic arrived in moments followed by the ambulance. The speed of response and level of care was fantastic. Luckily, the patient came-to in the theatre, otherwise I had a clergy member on hand should he be needed. To my relief, the patient rang me next morning – a viral attack!

I had to cut Pat short, so please come back another time!

With a bit of quick thinking, we diverted the audience to refreshments and then into the Atholl Room, fortunately empty, to set up for an instant AGM. Well over fifty members took part in a splendid meeting reviewing the highly successful year and setting course for another. 

Future events:  Saturday, 15th March, 2.00 pm at the Manx Museum – a tour of the 1st World War exhibition by Matthew Richardson, himself. This is a privilege not to be missed. Then, the 19th March, 7.30 pm in the Centenary Centre - Andrew Johnson with an illustrated talk, Traditional Buildings of Man. Non - members are always welcome.

Christmas Party and Film Night

Two articles for the price of one – our own January sale!

Before Christmas becomes a distant memory, I must record the splendid party we had at Peel Golf Club in December. The food and company was exceedingly good as were the usual raffle and quiz.

We were very fortunate in being able to book the outstanding group, The Cronk Illiam Scratchers – yes, Manx for Hill Billies! Having heard and enjoyed their humorous renditions before, I had no doubts about the treat in store. They even played my favourites, ‘They’re burning down the house that I grew up in’ and the mildly risqué, ‘The Hermit’. Our warmest thanks go to them for terrific entertainment and to all who contributed to a great celebration.

Our January meeting filled the Centenary Centre theatre. We had a special screening of Hall Caine’s most famous novel, ‘The Manxman’. I believe that this was Hitchcock’s last silent film. Bill Quine had made all the arrangements and gave us a most useful introduction. It was largely filmed in Polperro, Cornwall. Bill thought that this was that Hall Caine interfered so much in the filming that Hitchcock upped sticks. However, there were shots at Niarbyl and possibly in the woods near Raby. The late Barton Quirk had told Bill, in a recorded interview, that he remembered the occasion and the excitement of watching the filming.

The film was shot in black and white and clearly sub-titled. The exaggerated facial expressions and movements all added to the experience of a gripping story well told. It was a real tear- jerker. Copies of the book aren’t too hard to come by, so I won’t reveal the plot. If you do get a chance to watch the dvd, seize the opportunity.

Our next meeting is on Wednesday 19^th February 7.30 pm in the Centenary Centre. For technical reasons, the programme has been changed. Pat Tutt will be giving us an illustrated talk on her superb book, An Introduction to the Architecture of the Isle of Man. She will emphasise buildings in Peel so this will be very special. I’m hoping that copies will be available then you can get yours signed.

Following refreshments, we will hold our AGM. This is always lively with the formal part dealt with promptly to leave plenty of time for discussion and suggestions for the new programme. There are a couple of people retiring by rotation so do come with suggestions for the committee. A proposer and seconder is required and do make sure that the person you have in mind is prepared to stand. We can co-opt non-voting members for particular tasks so if you would like to help, don’t be shy! We’re looking for an editor for our newsletter, so do let us know if this is something you would enjoy.

This is going to be a wonderful, popular evening, so do come in good time.

Remembrance Travels - Cannell CBE

Ian’s talk this time, focused on war graves, world - wide. Passports at the ready, we set off on a series of remarkable journeys and experiences, many to countries many of us would find difficult to place on a map.

The emphasis, Ian stressed, was not on wallowing in sadness but on the uplifting experiences of those taking part in the regular tours organised by the travel arm of the R.B.L. in conjunction with Newmarket Travel. This enabled war widows, widowers, family members, friends, school groups or other interested members of the public to visit war graves safely and smoothly with experienced guides.

In 1914, a Red Cross worker realised that rough wooden crosses for graves was too impermanent. A graves registration group was established with plots of land donated by the country where the fallen lay, to be maintained in perpetuity by the British government. These incredible cemeteries were even planted out with plants typical of British gardens. All gravestones are of identical size and pattern, regardless of rank or status. All are equal in death. Cemeteries range in size from three or four to thousands. Every cemetery has a large cross of sacrifice with a bronze sword of St George, the patron saint of the fighters. A large stone of remembrance is always present and may be used as an altar for services.

The Commonwealth War Graves Commission commemorates 1 700 000 dead from the two world wars in 153 countries. You can trace these individuals via www.CWGC.org   The site is of great interest and value, not just for tracing family members and friends killed but for information associated with these terrible events. Additionally, many of thousands who were killed are in civilian cemeteries worldwide.

Artefacts still come to light. Battlefields s yield bones, uniform fragments, weapons and personal belongings of the fallen. Appropriate finds may be displayed in museums. Sometimes, it is possible to identify individuals and this can be of some comfort to those who still remember people lost in action.

Different countries commemorate their fallen in different ways. America tends to repatriate their fallen to Arlington Cemetery. The Russians have a valley with a huge statue of a soldier at one end and at the other, a mother carrying a child. This represents Mother Russia weeping over the millions who were killed.

In Britain, the government will still pay for a war widow to visit the grave of their husband on one occasion.

Ian spoke of visits he has made all over the globe. Always, the graves are cared for, respected and appreciated by families. Would you not think that these would act as a deterrent to further killing? Nothing seems to deter slaughter on an industrial scale. Good will triumph over evil but why so long, Oh Lord?

The next meeting is our party at the Golf Club on 10^th December. Fine food and the incredible Cronk Illiam Scratchers will entertain. Ring Corrie on 843502.